Beading Wire - All you need to know

When I go to bead fairs, I'm frequently asked about beading wire, so I thought it would be useful to write about it.

Beading wire is made from very fine strands of wire, twisted like a rope and coated in plastic, and is most beaders choice for stringing necklaces and bracelets. It can be used for earrings too (more about that next time). There's a huge variety of different strengths and thicknesses available, which is why some explanation is needed!

Basically, there are two things you need to know - strand count, and diameter.

Strand Count

Beading wire is available in different strand counts - 7, 21 and 49 strand are the most common, although 3 and 19 strand are also occasionally available.

7 strand (commonly known as tigertail) is the most economical, but also less strong and less flexible than the higher stranded wires. The images show a cross-section, so you can see how it's constructed.

As the number of strands increases, so does the strength and flexibility, and also the price. 21 strand is made of 3 strands of 7, which is like 3 ropes twisted together. 

49 strand, the strongest and most flexible of them all, is made of 7 strands of 7.

Diameter

Beading wires are also available in a variety of diameters, from a very fine .0007" up to .024". Therefore, a 7 strand with a diameter of .024" is thicker than a 49 strand with a diameter of .014". But the 49 will still be the stronger and more flexible one.

Choosing your Beading Wire

Because we have such a huge choice, it can be difficult to make your decision. Price is obviously a factor, and 7 strand is a good quality at an economical price. It's the one I'd recommend for beginners, and is fine for everyday, not too heavy, necklaces and bracelets. But if you graduate onto the more expensive wires, you will really notice the difference. For heavy glass, metal or gemstone beads, 49 strand is by far the best. I also like a 21 strand .014" diameter for lightweight beading, as it gives a beautiful drape.

Brands

I would advise to always choose a known brand. Flexrite, Accuflex, Beadalon and Acculon are all good quality brands. I have made the mistake of buying a cheap unbranded one, that was just called Tigertail and it's barely good enough to give away, let alone to sell.

I hope that's clearer than mud, and that it's "all you need to know"! If you have any questions, or if I've left something out, post a comment below.

Next time - working with coloured beading wires.

For more crafty blogs, have a look at Handmade Harbour

How to Make Even Sized Loops every time

I'd been making jewellery for many years before I learned this simple trick, and I've been using it ever since. I came across it on the UK Beaders Forum, which is a great resource and discussion area for jewellery makers.

When you have designed your earring and are ready to make the loop, add a measure bead to the headpin. The one shown is 8mm, which I find is the best size. A 6mm measure bead would also work, but it would give a smaller loop.

 

Cut the wire where it comes out of the 8mm bead.

Remove the measure bead, and you will always have the same length of wire, making your loops the same size each time.

Aren't the simple things in life so often the best!

For instructions and photos on how to make the loops, see this blog post, and if you'd like to look at some creative blogs, have a look at Handmade Harbour

 

Next time - all you need to know about beading wire.

How to Make Earrings

Hi, this is my first proper post, and I will explain, in words and photos, how to make loops for earrings.

You will need - your choice of beads, headpins, a pair of earwires, round nose pliers, and pliers to cut metal (nail clippers will also do this job, but they will wear out more quickly!).


First, thread your beads onto the headpin, and cut the headpin so that you have about 1cm of wire above the beads.

With the tip of the round nose pliers, grip the wire where it comes out of the top bead, as close as you can to the beads, and bend it over to an angle of about 45 degrees.

Now grip the top of the wire with the round nose pliers. Any wire that is sticking up out of the pliers will remain straight, so just run your finger along the pliers to make sure that the wire is sitting in the centre of the pliers. You should not be able to feel the tip of the wire.

Rotate the pliers towards the beads, so that the wire curves around them. You need to keep the wire hugging the pliers to form a nice circle. I find it helps to rest the wire on the index finger of my left hand (I am right handed) and hold it in place with my thumb. About half way round, you will need to slacken the pliers and reposition them to continue.

 

When the tip of the wire meets the start of the loop, your loop is complete. It should be sitting centrally above the beads, and there should be no gap where the wires meet. If not, don't worry, you will perfect this skill with practice.

Your earring will fit onto any standard earwire so long as there is a loop to hang it onto.

Next time - How to make even sized loops every time.

Hi, I'm Celia, and I've been in the world of beading since 1985. I started by making beaded jewellery as a hobby, then as a small business. I started selling beads and jewellery making supplies in about 1995, at my bead shop in a Sheffield suburb for 11 years. I closed the bricks and mortar shop in 2008 to sell online and through bead fairs around the country.

Beading has become much more sophisticated and varied over the years, with so many more beads, threads and findings available for us to use. I'm still learning!

Through this blog, I'm hoping to bring your techniques, information and inspiration for jewellery making and beadwork.